There is a whole list of things that us as bearded dragon owners should avoid exposing our dragons to. It can result in injury, illness, death or
simply isn't good for them.
Fireflies/Lightening Bugs - These bugs are absolutely lethal to a bearded dragon. Within minutes of eating one the bearded dragon will
usually start shaking its head violently, gaping as if to try and regurgitate/vomit the firefly back up, exhibiting severe breathing problems. Basically it
is just not a good thing to watch. Ultimately the dragon will die. There is no saving it. Fireflies have a steroid type substance called lucibufagin. It
acts like a stimulant to the heart. Fireflies use this substance as a defense against predators. Essentially it is like giving a major overdose of heart
medication to a pogona vitticeps. A bearded dragon will usually die between 30 minutes - 2 hours after ingesting one. PLEASE don't feed them
and please watch what is near them should they be outside.
Heat Rocks - These devices should absolutely be yanked off the market. They are commercially sold in pet stores. While the concept sounds like
a good idea....as bearded dragons need warm rocks in their enclosure to rest on after eating to help aid digestion... These rocks get TOO HOT,
resulting in thermal burns. Please just use a regular Ole rock and put it near your basking zone for your dragon. Don't put the rock directly under
the heat as that too can get too hot for them. Ever seen your dragon go on his rock and curl his toes up slightly? Thats a good indication that the
rock is too hot for them.
Lettuces - Has little to no nutritional value and has too much water in it. If your dragon eats iceberg lettuce or any other type of lettuce he can get
diarrhea thus causing dehydration.
Avocados - Toxic to a Bearded Dragon
Rhubarb - Toxic to a Bearded Dragon
Prey caught outside - You're outside and you see a really cool bug, or even crickets and you want to feed them to your dragon... NOT a good
idea. Bugs aren't contained to your own back yard - they travel and who knows where they have been or what they have eating or walked on.
Many people use herbicides, pesticides and other chemicals on their grass, trees, gardens, and patios. What if that bug walked through a garden
that had ant killer? Or was on a tree that was being treated, or on grass that has a herbicide on it? That chemical would also be ingested by your
dragon when he eats that bug that was caught outside. Could be deadly; is it worth the risk?
Large food - Greens, veggies, worms & bugs should be size appropriate for your dragon. Please make sure they are no bigger than the space
between their eyes or the width of their mouth. Failure to do this can result in a whole host a problems triggered by terminal Ingestion. They will
swallow things that are too large for them especially little dragons. Whatever they swallowed can become lodged in their intestinal tract causing
severe pain. Signs that this has happened is they will extend their limbs straight back. Terminal ingestion can cause paralysis. Unfortunately,
should this happened it is unlikely you will be able to save your dragon. Please take the time to ensure their food is the right size.
Stick-on Thermometers or analog Thermometers - These thermometers can be off by as much as 20° ! Nuts eh? Your best bet is to use a
digital thermometer or temp gun. People hear the word digital and think "oh no its going to be expensive", but you would be surprised. I have
gotten digital thermometers w/ probe from a couple of departments stores in their outdoor thermometer section for as little as $8 CAD. That's
cheaper than most of those thermometers they sell in the pet stores that don't work :) Temp guns are great too. They too are cheaper than you'd
think. Click here to view the Temp Guns we carry.
Too much fruit - Believe it or not Bearded Dragons can get cavities! Too much fruit isn't a good thing. A small amount of fruit once a week is ok.
Try not to give fruit more often than that.
Extreme Heat - Yes, bearded dragons are desert creatures but they can get too hot. Please use the suggested temperatures as a guideline to
heating your enclosures. By no means does it have to be exactly as suggested, some dragons like it a little warmer, some like it a little cooler.
Overheating your dragon can be deadly. Particularly pay attention to coming out of the winter months and heading into spring - as your home
temperatures rise so does your enclosures!
Too Cool - At night your dragon can safely go into the mid 60's without concern but their day time temperatures should be much higher. They
should have a nice hot basking zone (95°-105° for juvies & older and 105°-115° for hatchlings - juvie) and a cooler zone for them to retreat to
should they be too warm. Failure to have your cage & zone temperatures within proper ranges and if humidity is too high it could result in
Respiratory Infections. Baytril is usually prescribed for this, but if you catch it real quick and adjust your cage temperatures - that can usually
remedy the problem. If in a few days your dragon doesn't appear to be improving a trip to the vet is a must.
Dragons of different sizes - Mixing dragons of different sizes is not a good idea at all. If the size is TOO great i.e. Baby & adult - the adult WILL
eat the baby. Juvie & adult - it is unlikely that the adult will eat the juvie but it can serious injure or kill the Juvie. Even baby & juvie - Juvie will eat,
injure or kill the baby. Even if they are siblings, mother & baby, father & baby etc. There is NO "familial bonds" in the bearded dragon world.
Anything bigger is a predator and anything smaller is food. Please exercise caution when putting dragons together even for a minute. They must
be the same size or damn close to it. You don't want to make that mistake even once because you won't soon forget it.
It doesn't even have to be that dramatic but it can be... But dragons together that are different size groupings can & will cause incredible stress on
the smaller one(s), they will refuse to eat much if anything at all, fail to thrive and ultimately die of starvation. Intimidation doesn't even necessarily
happen outwardly, obviously or during feeding time. Just being in the same enclosure can simply be enough to start a downward spiral for the
smaller one(s). If you notice a dragon isn't eating, failing to thrive they should be separated immediately. If they don't pick up their eating in a few
days, perhaps there is another underlying issue and a vet trip should be booked.
Avoid Feeding Crazy Foods - I know temptation gets the best of us... It's human nature but please avoid feeding your dragon foods that deep
down you know you shouldn't feed them like chocolate, fries, pizza lol. It isn't good for them!
Holding or Putting Your Dragon on His Back - Doing this depresses your Dragon's respiratory system and this action could actually be quite
fatal. Some people have made the mistake of thinking their dragon likes this because they can appear calm and close their eyes. It cuts off their
oxygen if held there long enough and it can kill your dragon. Please don't do this!
simply isn't good for them.
Fireflies/Lightening Bugs - These bugs are absolutely lethal to a bearded dragon. Within minutes of eating one the bearded dragon will
usually start shaking its head violently, gaping as if to try and regurgitate/vomit the firefly back up, exhibiting severe breathing problems. Basically it
is just not a good thing to watch. Ultimately the dragon will die. There is no saving it. Fireflies have a steroid type substance called lucibufagin. It
acts like a stimulant to the heart. Fireflies use this substance as a defense against predators. Essentially it is like giving a major overdose of heart
medication to a pogona vitticeps. A bearded dragon will usually die between 30 minutes - 2 hours after ingesting one. PLEASE don't feed them
and please watch what is near them should they be outside.
Heat Rocks - These devices should absolutely be yanked off the market. They are commercially sold in pet stores. While the concept sounds like
a good idea....as bearded dragons need warm rocks in their enclosure to rest on after eating to help aid digestion... These rocks get TOO HOT,
resulting in thermal burns. Please just use a regular Ole rock and put it near your basking zone for your dragon. Don't put the rock directly under
the heat as that too can get too hot for them. Ever seen your dragon go on his rock and curl his toes up slightly? Thats a good indication that the
rock is too hot for them.
Lettuces - Has little to no nutritional value and has too much water in it. If your dragon eats iceberg lettuce or any other type of lettuce he can get
diarrhea thus causing dehydration.
Avocados - Toxic to a Bearded Dragon
Rhubarb - Toxic to a Bearded Dragon
Prey caught outside - You're outside and you see a really cool bug, or even crickets and you want to feed them to your dragon... NOT a good
idea. Bugs aren't contained to your own back yard - they travel and who knows where they have been or what they have eating or walked on.
Many people use herbicides, pesticides and other chemicals on their grass, trees, gardens, and patios. What if that bug walked through a garden
that had ant killer? Or was on a tree that was being treated, or on grass that has a herbicide on it? That chemical would also be ingested by your
dragon when he eats that bug that was caught outside. Could be deadly; is it worth the risk?
Large food - Greens, veggies, worms & bugs should be size appropriate for your dragon. Please make sure they are no bigger than the space
between their eyes or the width of their mouth. Failure to do this can result in a whole host a problems triggered by terminal Ingestion. They will
swallow things that are too large for them especially little dragons. Whatever they swallowed can become lodged in their intestinal tract causing
severe pain. Signs that this has happened is they will extend their limbs straight back. Terminal ingestion can cause paralysis. Unfortunately,
should this happened it is unlikely you will be able to save your dragon. Please take the time to ensure their food is the right size.
Stick-on Thermometers or analog Thermometers - These thermometers can be off by as much as 20° ! Nuts eh? Your best bet is to use a
digital thermometer or temp gun. People hear the word digital and think "oh no its going to be expensive", but you would be surprised. I have
gotten digital thermometers w/ probe from a couple of departments stores in their outdoor thermometer section for as little as $8 CAD. That's
cheaper than most of those thermometers they sell in the pet stores that don't work :) Temp guns are great too. They too are cheaper than you'd
think. Click here to view the Temp Guns we carry.
Too much fruit - Believe it or not Bearded Dragons can get cavities! Too much fruit isn't a good thing. A small amount of fruit once a week is ok.
Try not to give fruit more often than that.
Extreme Heat - Yes, bearded dragons are desert creatures but they can get too hot. Please use the suggested temperatures as a guideline to
heating your enclosures. By no means does it have to be exactly as suggested, some dragons like it a little warmer, some like it a little cooler.
Overheating your dragon can be deadly. Particularly pay attention to coming out of the winter months and heading into spring - as your home
temperatures rise so does your enclosures!
Too Cool - At night your dragon can safely go into the mid 60's without concern but their day time temperatures should be much higher. They
should have a nice hot basking zone (95°-105° for juvies & older and 105°-115° for hatchlings - juvie) and a cooler zone for them to retreat to
should they be too warm. Failure to have your cage & zone temperatures within proper ranges and if humidity is too high it could result in
Respiratory Infections. Baytril is usually prescribed for this, but if you catch it real quick and adjust your cage temperatures - that can usually
remedy the problem. If in a few days your dragon doesn't appear to be improving a trip to the vet is a must.
Dragons of different sizes - Mixing dragons of different sizes is not a good idea at all. If the size is TOO great i.e. Baby & adult - the adult WILL
eat the baby. Juvie & adult - it is unlikely that the adult will eat the juvie but it can serious injure or kill the Juvie. Even baby & juvie - Juvie will eat,
injure or kill the baby. Even if they are siblings, mother & baby, father & baby etc. There is NO "familial bonds" in the bearded dragon world.
Anything bigger is a predator and anything smaller is food. Please exercise caution when putting dragons together even for a minute. They must
be the same size or damn close to it. You don't want to make that mistake even once because you won't soon forget it.
It doesn't even have to be that dramatic but it can be... But dragons together that are different size groupings can & will cause incredible stress on
the smaller one(s), they will refuse to eat much if anything at all, fail to thrive and ultimately die of starvation. Intimidation doesn't even necessarily
happen outwardly, obviously or during feeding time. Just being in the same enclosure can simply be enough to start a downward spiral for the
smaller one(s). If you notice a dragon isn't eating, failing to thrive they should be separated immediately. If they don't pick up their eating in a few
days, perhaps there is another underlying issue and a vet trip should be booked.
Avoid Feeding Crazy Foods - I know temptation gets the best of us... It's human nature but please avoid feeding your dragon foods that deep
down you know you shouldn't feed them like chocolate, fries, pizza lol. It isn't good for them!
Holding or Putting Your Dragon on His Back - Doing this depresses your Dragon's respiratory system and this action could actually be quite
fatal. Some people have made the mistake of thinking their dragon likes this because they can appear calm and close their eyes. It cuts off their
oxygen if held there long enough and it can kill your dragon. Please don't do this!
Written by: Robin Moniz 2006
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